Itinerary
Motorcycling to Spain: From Solo Christmas Rides to Exploring the Picos de Europa
I’ve toured Spain by motorcycle many times. In fact, my very first ever trip was a solo tour one Christmas, heading to visit my family in southern Spain.
Back in the late 1980s, my mother and father-in-law had decided to retire early and join the many expats setting up home in the Costa del Sol, Andalucía. One year, during a visit to us in Lancashire, they invited the family to their villa in Spain to celebrate the Millennium.
The idea was proposed rather last minute between my then wife and her parents. However, one crucial point had been completely overlooked. If the in-laws were to drive my family to Spain, how on earth was I supposed to get there? The dates clashed with business commitments I had already scheduled and last-minute flights to Málaga at that time of year were prohibitively expensive.
It also occurred to me that, even if there had been space in their small, slightly tired French jalopy, I’d be wedged in alongside my mother-in-law, wife and two energetic kids for days on end, with my regimented father-in-law at the helm, playing the part of Captain Mainwaring. Not exactly festive cheer.
I suggested to him that I’d make my own arrangements to get to Spain…..and that was that. On 21st December 1999, I headed to Portsmouth to catch the Pride of Bilbao to Santander, aiming to ride south in search of better weather.
As it turned out, when I arrived at their place in Torreblanca, I was met at the gate by good neighbours of my in-laws, frantically waving and shouting, “Mucha problema, mucha problema!” Apparently, the car in which my father in law were driving had broken down near Burgos in northern Spain. Thankfully, everyone was safe, and a breakdown service was on the way. With time to kill, I walked into nearby Fuengirola for a well-earned San Miguel…
But back to the point: when most people disembark the ferry in northern Spain, they make a mad dash to one of the Costas south of Barcelona. What’s often overlooked is the beauty of north-western Spain, especially Galicia and the Picos.
In May 2024, I spent a few days in Lugo and Santiago before heading south into the Douro Valley. I often find myself skirting the edge of the Picos de Europa, missing out on some of the best roads like the superb N-621 and N-625.
This year, however, I’ve changed things a little. No more touring Portugal and Galicia, this time, I’m dedicating quality time to exploring the Picos de Europa.
Itinerary
After disembarking from the ferry in Santander, having spent a couple of nights at sea, I set off for Potes, where I’ll be staying for the first three nights of the tour. For the remainder of the trip, I’ve opted for two-night stops, giving me time to explore each destination without feeling rushed. I’ve only booked a few restaurants in advance, so hopefully the smaller town and villages have something good to offer.
The ride to Potes will follow the more scenic roads wherever possible. I always like to have an alternative route planned as well, usually a shorter and more direct option, just in case the weather turns and the ride becomes more of an endurance test than a pleasure.
With Cantabria renowned for its spectacular scenery, mountains and brilliant twisting roads, I have several routes mapped out in and around Potes. The plan is to spend a day or two exploring by motorcycle and another day on foot, taking in the local area at a slower pace. I may also make the short journey to the Fuente Dé Cable Car, around 25 kilometres from Potes. By all accounts, it’s an experience not to be missed on a clear day.
Distance covered: approximately 140 miles
My next destination is Ponferrada, where I’ll be staying for two nights. The route promises some magnificent scenery. Leaving Potes, I’ll follow the N 621 until it meets the LE 243. From there, I can either head north for a while on a more scenic detour or continue towards the CL 635 and N 626 before arriving in Ponferrada. Whatever option I choose, the journey should provide plenty of memorable riding. In the evening, I’m looking forward to dining at the highly regarded Restaurant Muna.
Distance covered: approximately 220 miles
From Ponferrada, I continue on to Ourense. The most direct route follows the A6 before joining the N 120. There is a more scenic alternative available, but with average speeds of around 30 mph it would turn into a ride of more than three hours, and sometimes practicality has to win over scenery
Distance covered: approximately 102 miles
Leaving Ourense, I pick up the N 536 before heading towards Oviedo. A spirited run along the N 636 and then the 15 should see me arriving in the city by mid afternoon, with plenty of time left to explore.
Distance covered: approximately 220 miles
My final stop is Gijón, where I’ll spend another two nights. With the city relatively close by, I have a number of route options available and intend to choose the most scenic and leisurely roads, making the most of my final days in northern Spain.
Distance covered: 150 miles
After a couple of nights in Gijón, it will be time to turn north once more and make my way back to Santander for the ferry crossing home. Arriving back in Portsmouth the following afternoon, I’ll then begin the final leg of the journey to South Derbyshire, where a warm welcome awaits
Distance covered: approximately 110 miles to port and 180 miles to South Derbyshire