Ponferrada 6-8 June
Over breakfast one morning, a fellow rider commented on my planned route to Ponferrada and warned me there were no fuel stops on the first leg to Riaño. I had plenty in the tank, but decided to heed his advice and top up before setting off on what promised to be a superb ride along the N-621.
The climb through the switchbacks towards Puerto de San Glorio was spectacular. The temperature fell steadily from a comfortable 20°C to just 9°C at the 1,610m summit, a welcome reminder of the altitude. The road is more about scenery than speed, but the views more than compensate.
As I continued the climb, I noticed what appeared to be a kettle of buzzards circling high above in the distance. As I drew closer, their impressive wingspans and intricate feather patterns became ever more distinct. For a few memorable moments, they were only metres away, gliding effortlessly on the rising thermals. It was a remarkable sight, but with my focus firmly fixed on the road ahead and the climb still demanding my attention, I pressed on and continued the ride.
Viaducto de Riaño
Beyond Riaño, everything changed. The tight bends gave way to long, sweeping curves, the roads were virtually empty, and the temperature climbed back to a pleasant 23°C. I stopped briefly by the bridge in Riaño to take in the stunning scenery and grab a few photographs.
Castillo de los Templarios - Ponferrada
One word of caution for fellow riders; cattle are regularly moved between fields in this area, and the resulting deposits on the road can catch you out if you're not paying attention.
Street art
The final run into Ponferrada was effortless and thoroughly enjoyable. Now settled in for a couple of nights, with dinner booked at Mu·na at 9pm. A fitting end to a cracking day's ride.
Ponferrada is anything but a typical tourist town for Brits. It's a bustling place, full of local life, and during my visit the city was in the midst of a fiesta, drawing in people from the surrounding area and adding to the lively atmosphere.
Beneath the apartment blocks lining the streets, there seems to be a strong sense of community. Small local businesses, cafés and gathering places create the impression of neighbours supporting one another and maintaining the social fabric of the city.
Like many towns and cities across Spain, Ponferrada has its share of history. Alongside its historic character, I noticed plenty of street art, giving colour and personality to the urban landscape. There are also reminders of harder times, with some buildings and premises standing empty, neglected and showing the wear of age.
For me, Ponferrada is more of a stopping off point on the way to other destinations, and I suspect other travellers see it in much the same way. One thing that did stand out, however, was the relative lack of motorcyclists compared with many of the places I've passed through on my travels.
Street art