Ourense 8 - 10 June
I made an early start for the ride to Ourense, mindful of the rising temperatures and keen to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat. It was pleasantly warm when I left Ponferrada, although the forecast suggested it would become much hotter by the time I reached my destination. As it turned out, the ride was reasonably comfortable, and a few extra hydration stops along the way certainly helped.
Gone were the sweeping mountain roads and tight hairpins that I had become accustomed to over the previous few days. In their place were faster, more direct roads that made for steady progress. I picked up the N-6 out of town before joining the N-120. Although roadworks slowed the pace in places, the miles continued to pass by without too much delay.
Along the route I passed several derelict roadside restaurants and hotels. Once thriving businesses serving travellers on these busy roads, they now sit abandoned and forgotten, slowly fading into insignificance. I wish I had stopped to take a few photographs, but the faster pace of the traffic made it difficult. The only one I managed to properly notice stood near a disused railway line, and by the time I considered stopping, it was already too late.
Hotel Belvédère
The sight reminded me of the famous Hotel Belvédère on the Furka Pass in the Swiss Alps, best known for its appearance in the 1964 James Bond film Goldfinger. The hotel has stood empty for years, having finally closed its doors at the end of 2015. Another sad reminder that even the most iconic establishments can eventually succumb to changing times.
Arriving in Ourense, I had little difficulty finding the multi storey car park recommended by the hotel. Conveniently located just a five minute walk from both the historic northern community and my hotel, it proved an ideal place to leave the bike for the next couple of nights.
With the motorcycle safely parked, thoughts soon turned to dinner. Traditional Galician cuisine was firmly on the menu, and I already had one or two restaurants in mind. Many eateries here operate on a first come, first served basis and do not take reservations, so timing can be important.
I wandered through the historic quarter and passed the Atarazana Tavern and Pulpería, only a couple of minutes from my hotel. Unfortunately, I had arrived too early, as it did not open until 8pm. Rather than wait outside, I found a nearby bar and enjoyed a cold beer while patiently watching the evening come to life.
As opening time approached, a small queue began to form outside the tavern. I joined it and was fortunate enough to secure a table. Within ten minutes of opening, the restaurant was already two-thirds full, a promising sign that I had chosen well for my first evening in Ourense.