Gijón Asturias 12-14 June
As I arrived in the city of Gijón, I could not help but be drawn towards the tall apartment lined streets, modern façades, branded shops and department stores. At first glance, it did little for me. I’ve always been more attracted to places with a little wear and history…the tired, weathered, dated slightly battered towns that carry culture, character and a story of their own.
Fortunately, my accommodation was away from the main city, situated on the peninsula and much closer to the marina and the historic heart of Gijón. My hotel was tucked away down a series of narrow alleyways and small streets, more a simple boutique style establishment than a large national chain. My navigation system did its job perfectly, taking me directly to the hotel entrance.
As I pulled up outside, the owner/manager, Andrés, came out to greet me and kindly helped with my luggage before showing me through to reception. Having booked secure parking, he asked me to follow him to the garage, which was only a short walk from the hotel. There I found a quiet, empty garage with remote access…secure and practical.
It turned out Andrés was a fellow biker, although his riding was more commuting than long distance touring. He was fascinated by my journey and asked if he could take a few photographs of me and the bike. I happily obliged, assuming they would eventually find their way onto his website or social media.
My room for the two nights was basic but clean, located within a barrio obrero apartment neighbourhood where barking dogs and the occasional sound of children playing became part of the local soundtrack. Breakfast wasn’t included, but there was a vending machine at reception offering coffee and snacks…I found a small local tapas bar the following morning and breakfast was more than adequate.
A short walk from the hotel revealed a completely different side of Gijón. The area was full of character, with an abundance of small bars and restaurants scattered among the streets. Within barely a minute’s walk, I discovered a hidden square surrounded by bars, with tables and chairs spilling out into the open space. It was vibrant, lively and full of conversation and laughter.
The aromas drifting from the kitchens immediately stirred my appetite, the smell of freshly cooked food filling the air. With dinner still some time away, I settled into a nearby bar for a cold beer and a small slice of Tortilla Española, enjoying the atmosphere and watching everyday life unfold around me.
Cimadevilla — The Old Quarter
Perched on a rocky headland overlooking the sea, Cimadevilla is the historic heart of Gijón. Once an old fishermen’s neighbourhood, it is now a charming maze of cobbled streets, hidden squares, traditional cafés, bars and local restaurants. Its maritime heritage is still very much present, and wandering through its narrow streets feels like stepping into a more authentic version of the city.
Gijón attracts a diverse mix of visitors, particularly during the summer months when many Spaniards travel north to escape the intense heat of the southern regions. One evening, while sitting in a bar in the old quarter, I found myself chatting with a Spanish couple from Madrid who had travelled to Gijón for their annual holiday. They explained that they always preferred northern Spain over the south. For them, the southern regions had become too crowded, more expensive and simply too hot during the summer months. They loved Asturias, describing the people as warmer and friendlier, and appreciated that the north still felt less affected by mass tourism. The cooler Atlantic breeze from the Bay of Biscay certainly creates a more comfortable climate. Both worked for the government in housing related roles, and it was obvious from their conversation that they had a genuine affection for Gijón and the Asturias region.
Dining in Gijón
My first evening meal was at Gloria, the sister restaurant of where I had dined a few nights earlier. Located on the edge of the city and only around a 15-minute walk from the old quarter, Gloria is a quality, upmarket tapas restaurant offering a modern take on local cuisine.
Here I enjoyed free-range chicken with rice, followed by nem with pork cheek and prawn, both dishes full of flavour and perfectly complemented by a glass or two of Albariño.
My final evening meal was at El Recetario, again located on the edge of the city but within easy walking distance of my hotel. The meal began with sirloin steak tartare, followed by hake meatballs served in a rich shrimp sauce.
I thoroughly enjoyed the whole dining experience. The food was excellent, the service equally impressive, and the value for money was exceptional. It is somewhere I would happily return to.
Final Thoughts
I genuinely enjoyed my time in Gijón, particularly the old quarter. It was full of life, with busy bars, welcoming restaurants and a wonderful atmosphere. The food was consistently excellent, and the charm of Cimadevilla completely won me over.
I found little reason to explore the modern city centre, mainly because I had everything I needed within the old quarter. It kept me busy enough, entertained enough, and offered exactly the type of atmosphere I enjoy when travelling.
The hotel suited my needs perfectly, central enough, simple, and with a welcoming owner who made the arrival experience memorable. I would certainly consider staying there again. However, with an underground car park nearby, I would probably choose that option next time rather than attempting to navigate the smaller alleyways and narrow streets on a motorcycle.
Gijón may not have impressed me immediately upon arrival, but once I discovered its hidden corners, historic streets and local charm, it became a place I was genuinely pleased to have visited.