Oviedo 10 - 12 June
As I left Ourense, I had two possible routes ahead of me. The first was a more rural cross country option, a scenic ride of around 220 miles that would take between five and six hours to complete. Whilst undoubtedly the prettier of the two, it would also be slow going for much of the journey. The alternative was the quicker route, following the N-120 before joining the CG-2.2 past Lugo and then connecting with the A-6 and A-8. Both routes had their own challenges and both promised an enjoyable ride, but in the end practicality won the day and I opted for the faster option.
I made several stops along the way, mainly to keep hydrated, although one was necessary for fuel. In places the route felt surprisingly remote, with long stretches of road seemingly untouched by the convenience of motorway services. That said, stopping in small towns and villages is never much of a hardship. It's always satisfying to spend a few euros supporting the local economy.
Mechanic’s workshop
One such stop was in Chorente, just a few minutes from the LU-546. After refuelling, I settled down with a coffee, a short rest and another bottle of water to replenish my ever-depleting reservoir. Whilst there, I noticed a mechanic's workshop only a few metres from where I had parked. Curiosity got the better of me and I wandered over to take a look. It was fascinating to see what a rural Spanish workshop looked like. To my eyes it appeared as though it had been broken into and thoroughly ransacked, but I'm quite sure the owner would have described it as perfectly organised, meticulously arranged and operating exactly as intended.
As I approached Oviedo, I quickly realised just how substantial a city it is. What was once a historic old town has clearly expanded over the years into a thriving regional centre of business and hospitality. Even before reaching the centre, I could catch enticing aromas drifting from restaurants and cafés, while bars seemed to occupy almost every available corner. There was certainly no shortage of places to eat and drink. After locating the car park without too much difficulty, I made the short five-minute walk to my hotel in the heart of the old town.
That evening I had a reservation at Gloria an upmarket tapas bar, a short stroll from Plaza Porlier, close to where I was staying. The restaurant is owned by the same family behind the prestigious Casa Marcial. I had visited Casa Marcial several years earlier as part of a group of twelve travelling by motorcycle and car. At the time it held two Michelin stars; today it proudly boasts three, along with a Green Star for sustainability. The food on that visit was exceptional and, interestingly, the restaurant now opens only for lunch.
Nestled between the Cantabrian Mountains and the coast, Oviedo is the elegant and historic capital of Asturias. Known for its pedestrian-friendly medieval centre, remarkable pre Romanesque architecture and its role as the starting point of the Camino Primitivo, it is a city that rewards exploration. Renowned for its cleanliness and abundance of green spaces, it is also something of a paradise for food lovers.
The following morning I rose early, keen to enjoy breakfast and explore the old town before the city properly awoke. After a full day in the saddle the previous day, the gentle walk also provided some welcome exercise.
To my surprise, there was already plenty happening by 9:15 a.m. Not from tourists, and certainly not from many locals enjoying a leisurely start to the day, but from the army of suppliers keeping the city's hospitality industry running. The sound of delivery carts echoed through the narrow streets as drivers wheeled supplies to cafés, bars and restaurants. Some establishments were already open, while others remained shuttered, with crates of beer and soft drinks left neatly outside, presumably awaiting collection alongside a delivery note. The morning air was noticeably cooler than it had been the previous afternoon, and even the early risers seemed content to enjoy their breakfast from the comfort of a shaded terrace.
Where possible, I've adapted my dining habits while travelling. Many quality restaurants don't open until 8pm, with 9pm often the norm. By the time you're seated, order, and work your way through a tasting menu, it can be close to midnight before you emerge in search of a cleanser near the hotel.
In the past, late dining has often led to digestive discomfort in the early hours, interrupted sleep, and fumbling around in the dark for the bathroom light, usually accompanied by a touch of heartburn. My solution has been simple: dinner becomes lunch, and the evening meal becomes something much lighter and easier to digest.
I put this theory to the test in Oviedo at Ca'Suso, a highly regarded restaurant in the old town known for its tasting menu and excellent wine pairings. Before leaving the hotel, I'd convinced myself that the generous four-course lunch menu would be more than enough.
Arriving at 2pm prompt, I was shown to my table in a surprisingly quiet dining room. However, within minutes, parties of eight and ten arrived, transforming the atmosphere. The room quickly filled with conversation and energy, creating a lively lunchtime buzz.
I was presented with both the à la carte menu and the tasting menu. Knowing I wouldn't be eating again until much later, temptation got the better of me and I opted for the tasting menu with paired wines. The two waiters, whom I assumed were co-owners, sprang into action with impressive efficiency as the restaurant filled around them.
With an aperitif in hand, I settled back and waited for the feast to begin. A couple of chef's bites arrived first, followed almost immediately by the first wine pairing. Then came a steady procession of dishes and wines, each one as enjoyable as the last.
At one stage, feeling pleasantly light-headed, I asked one of the waiters how many courses.
"Eight courses," he replied.
Slightly alarmed, I followed up with, "And how many wines?"
"Five glasses."
I was staggered by the answer. Fortunately, dessert appeared to be approaching, bringing some relief. Then, of course, the dessert wine arrived.
In the end, it was a superb dining experience. For €102, the quality, hospitality and generosity were exceptional. Most importantly, I'm very glad I enjoyed it at lunchtime rather than facing the prospect of finishing such a feast close to midnight.